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Life from behind a lens

Transport in Tana

(I don't blog here anymore, but this post was published on my other blog The Great Escape, and is relevant here, so I thought I would reproduce it.)

I am on day 4 of my nine-day trip to Madagascar. These were just a few photos that I snapped on the way from home near Ivato airport to the Jumbo Score supermarket on the Digue road ... This is by no means a complete example of modes of transport on the roads of Antananarivo (the capital) but very typical of what one might come across at any time on any given day. Rory, one of my readers and a friend from back home, told me I should use more "manly" subjects if I wanted to attract more men to my blog. Well, this is one of those ...

Running repairs (I wonder what he's planning on doing with those scissors?)

These carts are used to transport pretty much anything that can be transported in Tana.
This man is waiting outside the local supermarket Shoprite for potential clients.
That is one vintage Peugeot next to him - in fact, I think my great-grandfather may have owned one...

 

Another photo of the patient transporter

A smaller cart than the previous one, as well as a man with his wheelbarrow transporting charcoal.

A Citroën 2CV from yester-year but very much still in use...

And when all one has is one's own two feet ...

Horsepower? No, manpower...

Not particularly big or tall ... but seriously strong for his size.

See "More of Tana's traffic" and "Weird Rides" for other examples of Tana's weird and wonderful transport methods - but which were not gathered in only a day, like the ones for this post.

Dreaming of Madagascar

Tana, my old hometown, has been on my mind a lot lately. It's raw, wild, alive and difficult to get out of one's system. Almost a year on, but it feels like yesterday since I was last there... Here are a few random photos from just before I left in June last year.

(This post in a slightly different form was originally on my other blog The Great Escape: Life from behind a lens but as it's about Madagascar I thought I'd duplicate it here.)

Night time in Talatamaty

I took these photos (after driving my friend Anri-Louise home) just down the road from where I used to live - where the night scene is a vibrant one, and where the urine smell is a strong one ...

What a story - the scavenging dog, the old lady filling a bottle and the customers waiting for their road-side stall food...

Now that's a bar! Drive through, park, sit ... You choose

But, to be honest, I prefer Anri-Louise's night-time homeward-bound photos.

Out of words this Wednesday

This post is originally from my active blog over at Rambling with a cantankerous old mule.

I'm out of words this Wednesday and oh so irritated with the lethargic Internet, which leaves me defaulting to a semi "Wordless Wednesday" post. (As usual, they are probably better bigger... Just click on the individual photos.)

Stormy skies over Tana at night

A scene across the marsh-land from where I'm staying

A Grade 2 in a warm Malagasy winter

The second lyn singing the school song with all the other junior school children

Second-eldest Midgley: Boy in a box

There should be a law against this

Click on the picture to see the fine print

This post was originally published over at my other blog, but I thought it was appropriate to leave a copy here too...

I was chuckling at this sign at the airport here in Tana (Antananarivo, Madagascar) yesterday afternoon while waiting what seemed an interminably long time for the harried check-in staff to open the counters.

Firstly, the introductory sentence: “Any infringement of these formalities is liable to prosecution and sanction in accordance with legal provisions into force.” I’ve lived abroad for so long I’m not even sure if that’s correct English! Is it? I don’t think so…

I also loved this line: “Transportation of species of fauna and flora threatened of extinction without authorisation.” Sounds like a good Google translation to me. So, plants are not authorised to become extinct? Or does it mean that one cannot export plants where authority has not been given to make them extinct. Oh, it’s all so confusing.

Clearly drug trafficking isn’t too serious an offence on this island of lemurs, incurring a mere fine of between $1 and $500 dollars and, lest one missed it, “work forces for a time”. And that’s only for “high risk drugs”… Any other drugs would be fine to traffic, it seems. And what is a high risk drug? Would cough syrup qualify? I’ve heard of people developing severe addictions to cough syrup. I’m just pleased they didn’t nab me with all the medication I have for my chest problems.

We were also wondering whether marijuana would fit into the fauna and flora category – that carries a $50,000 to $100,000 fine and/or imprisonment from 2 to 10 years. That would be one expensive joint, if caught!

I’d love to know how they came up with the monetary values on the sign. I mean, when it comes to trading in animals and animal products how do they get fines of between $72 and $1620 … Why not just round up or down? Oh, and what is “animals food”? Should that read animal’s food, animals’ food, or food made from animals? Whichever way I look at this one, I have a problem with it. "Animals food" ... I just can't wrap my brain around it.

I definitely wouldn’t want to be caught transporting “armaments of 2nd or 3rd categories without authorization” which carries a $20 fine (or 6 months in prison)… Six months or $20? Man, I’d pay the $20, especially after what I’ve heard about the conditions in Malagasy prisons…

Day trip to Ankorondrano

This is across at my other blog, but thought it appropriate to post here too...

Tana - unchanging, beautiful, full of life. Yesterday I took a short trip downtown - but a trip that one thinks very carefully about before embarking on. One has but a small window of opportunity for such a considerable journey - the roads are congested from early morning until about 9.30am, then from 12 - 2pm (when the majority of businesses close for lunch), and again from around 4pm as people start heading home. But how good it is to experience the vibrancy of the city for one last time. I knew that I was home when a wooden cupboard overtook us on a side road (sure, it was on a cart, being pushed by three skinny Malagasies, but where else in the world would that happen?) Enjoy some of the photos - mostly taken from the car while zipping along at walking speed.

Waiting, waiting, waiting for the bus ...

One of the typical carts on Tana's roads - absolutely back-breaking work ...

Fruit, fruit, plenty of fruit (stalls)...

A typical Tana vista close to the Digue market

Avocado? Oh, advocate (and family laundry, it seems)

A family outing? From the back we could see only four people on the scooter. But no, that just wouldn't be Tana ...

Goodbye (Finally)

seated in a horrid wheelchair, begging for a living,
with the odds against her, yet full of life and joy
... and a great sense of humour.

A place called home

Sitting in the Jo’burg to Tana airplane I try to process the loss of one of my dearest and Maddest friends, and his request of a final blog post … How can I write a final Madder-in-Mada post, and “lose” a friend without oozing sentimental junk?! This post is doomed from the start!

You have read some of my stories, seen some of the kids in my life, and posted sweet and hilarious comments via Rob’s blog – thanks. So, for the final scribble, a bit more about my home …

Sitting in the plane I find myself recognising the mud-brown rivers and the red contours of the land, and a passage from The Poisonwood Bible comes to mind: Africa is a disease. Once it enters your bloodstream you will never be free from it. It lives and breathes in you, has its hold on you, and you will be both one with it and apart from it and unable to completely separate yourself from it. This is Madagascar to me! 

I arrive home to the potholed streets and cacophony of karaoke, trucks and chatter filling the polluted air; to white puffy clouds that colour a blue sky – backdrop to the city of a thousand church steeples. I am greeted with foreign phrases in a musically-pitched language, and the recipient of cheerful grins from kids wearing threadbare hand-me-downs and mud marks on their faces. I avoid the roadside food stalls, following advice from Rob and the Midgleys in trying to avoid yet another tropical disease, but order pizza-of-a-different-kind from the only reliable fast-food delivery company. 

Then I sit back and sigh – the pleasant type of sigh that goes right into your gut and fills your heart with a fuzzy feeling of well-being. Who would have thought that this land would become home – a place with its own bitter-sweet joy … and its own hold on my heart? Yet, it is exactly that … a place that I wish I could share with the world.

So long then, dear Madder in Mada. And thank you for sharing my home with everyone who took the time to read about it.

The city with more church steeples than liquor stores ...

Two children and a mielie (sitting in a narrow alley-way between two houses)

Bad hairday

Now that's scary: Fresh Taste. Trendy Girls

__________________________ 

Don't forget, in future I will be blogging from Rambling with a Cantankerous Old Mule. Come on over, sign up, leave comments... I would love to hear from you!

Goodbye (part 2)

Esther, from laughwithusblog

I can't believe that I only really got blogging in earnest in September last year - it seems like a lifetime. Not only has it helped me to improve my photography, but I also found myself looking for the humour in situations more than I used to. Clearly the world is a serious-enough place to still blog about weighty issues, and (noticeably) my most-read posts were the light-hearted, humorous ones. 

Somewhere along the way I came across Esther, a fellow blogger at laughwithusblog. I stumbled across her site and ended up visiting most days to chuckle and live vicariously through her accounts of her numerous blunders in etiquette and family goings-on; she wandered across to mine and has become a faithful commenter and encourager.

Here she shares once again but for a change not in the comments section:

"I'm not sure how I happened on Madderinmada, but it has been a favorite.  The first thing that got me hooked was the humor.  What can I say?  I love to laugh!  I have enjoyed the funny quotes from the Midgley family of boys as well as the hilarity that came from Robin's students at times.  His friend and guest-poster Anri also kept me in stitches with her wild stories.

I also loved the real, true-to-life posts about Madagascar, the joys and hardships all viewed though a soul wanting to please God with all of his heart.  I have enjoyed the beautiful photos that capture so much in both people and country.  It appears that not only Mada will miss Robin, but all of his faithful readers around the world too. 

Get well, but please do keep writing!

A mad house in Texas"

_______________________________ 

Be sure to check back tomorrow for the last of the guest posts from Anri-Louise ...

Goodbye (Part 1)

Reece Midgley shortly after I arrived in Madagascar in 2009

There's a time for beginnings and there is a time for endings. 

I started this blog "Madder in Mada" back in 2009 when I moved to Madagascar to be with my friends the Midgleys, to help out in a local church and to teach at Vision Valley School in Tana. My main reason for the blog was to keep my friends and family updated with happenings, and to share some photos from the world around me.

I wasn't a very proficient blogger to start off with - I wasn't sure if I had much anyone would want to read and I never had much self belief in my photography. But then in the middle of 2010 I tackled it with gusto, got a few loyal followers and no-one has been able to shut me up since.

But now it's time to end it all (the blog, that is). I returned to South Africa around three weeks ago to see doctors after I fell ill in January this year, struggling to breathe, and just didn't recover. It turns out that all of the problems with my lungs were caused by allergies - allergies to mould, spores, mites, grasses, grains, dairy - even to coffee, my favourite drink. My regular doctor (the card that he is) joked that I'm allergic to life but should have at least a month to live.

All three doctors I have seen have been in agreement that I cannot return to Madagascar until I am completely healed, and have been free of symptoms for several months. It seems as if the allergies can clear up, the asthmatic symptoms can disappear, and I can return to breathing again normally (which is a good thing, all in all) but that if I return to Madagascar now I risk damaging my lungs permanently.

And so I have decided to stay in South Africa for the foreseeable future. Madder in Mada is, therefore, being put on the shelf (for now, anyway). But do not despair, do not fret, I'll keep blogging at a new site (Justin Midgley back in Madagascar suggested "Sadder in SA" but I've gone with): 

Rambling with a cantankerous old mule

Come on over. "Follow me" and I'll try to have more pictures, more funny stories and more about this "sad state of affairs" I find myself in back in South Africa... 

Tomorrow I'll finish off with part two of the farewell.

Zoë Life

The lively one

By now many of my regular readers will be well-acquainted with the Midgley family in Madagascar, and their kids in particular. The eldest, and most outspoken of them is Andrew, who was born way back (for him anyway) in 1999. In the same year some mutual friends, the Deans, who now reside in a tiny backwoods, backward place called Springs, in South Africa, had a little girl by the name of Zoë, which apparently means "Life" in Greek... She suffers from verbal diarrhoea (she even talks in her sleep) but has nevertheless brought much vitality into everyone's lives that she has touched. 

She's always been "different" to the norm, but then, the whole family is. Here are some of the things that make her so bizarre, so not-so-sane-in-Springs...

She says she's "biwingual" - she speaks English and Afrikaans.  A few weeks ago she bought a packet of fizz-pops candy with two flavours in one packet. "Hey, it's a biwingual packet of candy!" she said. She calls feathers "bird leaves"; only found out last year that she lives in South Africa, and not the USA; thinks that all meat is chicken and calls her fringe (bangs) her sideburns.

But the most delightful thing about Zoë is that for years she has told me that if I never manage to find a wife that she'll marry me one day "if she has to". Her older sister, the one with a black cat attached to her shoulder like a character from "the Addams Family", told me today that it is looking increasingly probable, despite their every attempt to "set me up".

Exhausted!

There's nothing more exhausting, it seems, than a good trampoline jumping session. I admit, I haven't attempted it recently as I've been holed up at home still struggling with my breathing (apparently this is a slow healing process in the natural) but this morning I went out for a coffee with two delightful young ladies, and then this afternoon spent a very relaxed time having a braai (barbecue) with friends. It was one of those braais where the meat was eaten straight off the grill  - the most tasty, finger-licking-good way in my opinion. And for the kids there was lots of playing, until a few of them simply fell down in a happy heap.

Grade 2s

I've found that classes (the children in them, that is) often take on the personality of their teachers. The Grade 2s at Vision Valley School (VVS) in Antananarivo, Madagascar are the most well-behaved, hardworking, friendly and delightful children, all, I believe, because of their amazing teacher Kay... 

It's all in the finger

Mr Robin in typical pose

The finger. To describe. To explain. To make a particularly pertinent point. To stick up a sleeping student's nose. The finger is the thing that makes me the teacher I am. If I was to sit still behind my desk and quietly tell my students to read chapter whatsit or learn 20 vocabulary words quietly by themselves then I would go mad, and they would all become a noisy, unruly bunch or find themselves in a permanent stupor. 

I'm not a particularly good teacher, but I am an energetic one. I try to find things that will interest and inspire and excite the students and I make liberal use of the finger. 

But now that's all over. It looks like health issues will be keeping me in South Africa and I have had to resign from my teaching job in Madagascar. What does the future hold? Who knows? 

Will it be an exciting ride? I'm sure... 

And so, all my wonderful students, buckle down and make the most of the little bit of schooling left in this term. Run with perseverance towards the final exams. Grab your futures in your own two hands and work. Hard. And if you were to falter, if you were to stumble, look up and remember "the finger" and the face and voice behind it spurring you on.

Kids on Sunday revisited

Three weeks ago I did a very candid post "Kids on Sunday" while in Madagascar... Not as candid, but here are some of my favourite kids from our church in Pretoria. Admittedly, they aren't great photos, but they are the cutest children...

She shows her love for me by kicking me in the knee or standing on my foot. But an angel (sometimes).

She gives the biggest hugs; unlimited numbers of them. The sweetest thing.

I've clearly been away from Pretoria for too long because this is how I was greeted by the princess of the woods... And when I said hello to her by name she asked, "How do you know me?" Well, at least she eventually found her smile.

The confines of clothing are just too much for "W" to handle. A weekly occurrence!

Some of the children with half an Easter Bunny...

And lastly, something that just couldn't wait - time to water a tree before heading home...