Living in a foreign country has its challenges. One of those is money – not only the lack of it but dealing with a foreign currency...
And here in Madagascar we deal with two, sometimes three ... It keeps us on our toes and is hilarious at times.
Again, some background: In the 1920s Madagascar gained the Malagasy Franc (FMG) as its currency – pegged to the French Franc. And it remained the official currency until 2005 when former president Marc Ravalomanana, trying to sever ties with the French, and open his country to the world, changed the currency to the Ariary. (Currently approx. 2000 Ariary = 1USD, while approx. 280 Ariary = 1 Rand.)
Here’s where it gets interesting. All products are marked in Ariary, but the majority of the population still thinks in FMG. The large notes are only in Ariary, while the smaller notes carry both the Ariary and FMG amounts. So, a typical scene at our local supermarket (which I see often) would go something like this:
Checkout lady: “That’ll be 24100 Ariary ($12), please”
Customer: “How much is that in FMG?”
Checkout lady: “120 500”
The customer then counts out the ARIARY, while doing the conversion to FMG in their heads! So, while removing a 10 000 Ariary note she would say to herself, "50 000" and so on until reaching the amount owed...
Taxis, roadside vendors, kids at school, indeed the majority of all trade here is quoted in FMG, but one always has to check. So, when buying tomatoes, if the lady says “1500”, then you ask, "FMG, or Ariary"? FMG being the answer, you hand over a 500 Ariary note. When I first arrived here, and before I understood this concept, I was most put-out when I was told to pay “1000” for a short bus ride. When I showed my ire, all the passengers burst out laughing and explained that I'd been quoted the FMG price, that it was only 200 Ariary, and that the vazaha wasn’t being picked on!
And then, every now and then, one has to make payments in dollars too, like for airplane tickets or credit card purchases! Recently I had to register several students for their SAT exams (in dollars). I paid with my South African credit card, did the dollar conversion to Rands, then to Ariary, and finally into FMG to tell them what they owed... How the head swims!
Ah we finally get to meet your dad! :) I remember similar issues with the Mexican peso of trying to do the math as I paid. At least there it is just the peso and the US dollar. I loved the bus story!
ReplyDeleteJust reading that made my head spin! I feel lucky that all I have to deal with is the US dollar and the Euro... most of the countries around me use the Euro too... no no big deal!
ReplyDeleteactually it is pretty easy.
ReplyDeletewhen you are quoted a price in French, the currency is FMG. for example, the cost of 1KG of potatos will be quoted as "cinq mille", so you know they mean 5000FMG.
when dealing with ariary, the price should be quoted in Malagasy, for example the same KG of potatos will be "arivo", thus 1000 Ariary.
moral of the story ? put in some effort and learn how to count in malagasy :)
@Anonymous That sounds a bit like an oversimplification of what is arguably a richer culture than you seem to perceive. Having personally shopped in the Malagasy markets, not just the tourist spots, I beg to differ with you. But rather than speak as an expert, I am going to check with few of my Malagasy friends and write back again. If it is as simple as you say, it will be a huge help. I am really trying to get to know this place and its people, which is now my home.
ReplyDeleteAnonymous is right, almost.
ReplyDeleteHaving obtained some perspective from Tanteraka, he says this is true, except when it is not.
So, he knows when he is in the market 'cinq mille' means FMG and 'arivo' means Ariary. But then at a little shop, maybe, or maybe not, and at Shoprite, no.
What makes it more complicated is that everyone is moving over to Ariary albeit 'moramora'. Additionally, larger numbers are difficult to express in Malagasy (not for me, for me impossible) so Malagasy people use French most of the time and even more so for larger numbers. Telephone numbers are spoken in French, but bible verses are quoted in Malagasy, except in more urban areas where French may be used depending on the congregation.
And don't get started on how far away something is... because that changes depending on where you are ;-)
Moral of the story. If you shop in Shoprite, it is French and Ariary. If you go in the market, it is as 'anonymous' said. So come on now Rob put in some effort and learn how to count in Malagasy: Ray, Roa, Telo...
When you can say 13452746 in Malagasy, you have graduated patience class.