This is not going to be one of my regular blogposts. There will be no accompanying photos, no funny, witty little anecdotes. It is not cheerful.
On my way home from giving extra English lessons today, through the throng of typical Saturday afternoon traffic, I knocked a young girl down. I wasn’t going fast. I watched her cross into the middle of the lane, freeze, run backwards, run forwards, and then freeze once again right in front of me – like a deer in the headlights. I had already braked, but was going fast enough to knock the wind out of her.
I obviously stopped to see if she was okay, which she seemed to be, but the bottle she had been carrying lay shattered on the ground and her left hand was grazed and bleeding. In her right hand she still clutched the few notes she was heading to the corner shop with. I checked to see that she had no broken bones. She looked dazed, but otherwise unhurt. And then everything went south.
Madagascar is in a mess. People are desperate, bitter and tired of being victims. And unfortunately, because they cannot turn their anger on the main culprits of their pain, the politicians in their ivory towers, they turn it on anyone they can – the rich, the foreigner, whoever is in the wrong place at the right time. It’s short-sighted but real. In this particular case they turned it on me.
A crowd quickly gathered, some people obviously concerned, others opportunistic, angry and vocal about me needing to make right for the damage I had caused. Genuinely sympathetic, I tried to sort something out. I had money in my hand, to get her to the pharmacy and doctor around the corner, to replace her bottle of cold drink, but people in the crowd started demanding payment for her “broken arm”, payment to take her to the doctor, clinic, hospital (for x-rays and further treatment) and that this would cost me 1 000 000 Ariary (about $500). I refused.
I’m sure that they are all very pleasant people when at home, but there on the street I saw them transmogrify into an angry, threatening, hissing mob. One woman, in particular, fuelled the flames. By now the little girl was crying. I’m not sure how to explain how the story unravelled. But unravel it did; in a hurry. The next thing I knew I was being jostled, people were grabbing at my backpack, there was screaming and rage and so I jumped on my bike to go. (I’m a foreigner in a foreign land, and it’s just a situation one doesn’t want to find oneself in, especially now with all the politically-motivated turmoil.) One person threatened to call the police; others hemmed me in and tried to pull the bike from under me. Something was pulled out of my pocket. I fired the beast up, gunned the engine and fled through the crowd, not in fear of my life, but flee I did – very shaken and upset.
And the more I’ve thought about it, the more terrible I've felt. I am heartbroken that the real victim was left with nothing. I’m devastated that I couldn’t help her. I wish I could go back and make things right with her. But I’m also livid and disillusioned that I saw this African disease of entitlement rear its ugly head again today – that the white man, the foreigner must pay no matter what.
Because in the end no-one wins ...